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Fire and Ice expeditions – standing on the roof of the Americas |
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The Fire and Ice Expedition Team based at County Durham and Darlington Fire and Rescue Service have successfully and safely returned from their expedition to Aconcagua, spending 26 days in the Andes and conquering the ‘Stone Sentinel’, known as the ‘Roof of the Americas’
OF THE 11 FIRE AND ICE EXPEDITION Team members, six were firefighters, including three from County Durham. The extreme adventure had been organised by Fire and Ice and the expedition to Aconcagua 6,962m (22,842ft) included 26 days in the Argentinean Andes from January 5-30, 2007. Aconcagua, often referred to as the ‘Stone Sentinel’, the Roof of the Americas, is located in the southern Andes (Argentina/Chile border) and is the highest peak in the world outside Asia. It is also the highest mountain in the Southern and Western hemispheres, and the highest of the seven continental summits after Everest. The team managed to get nine out of the 11 members to the summit of Aconcagua which is a success rate of 83 per cent compared to the 25 per cent average.
Frostbite and Blizzards
On reaching High Camp 2 (5,8881m) they had to endure 160 kph winds, snow blizzards, 50 per cent lack of oxygen at altitude, frostbite, and altitude mountain sickness, and spent four days stranded on one of the most dangerous mountains on earth. They were exhausted by relentless slogging up and down Aconcagua as they created two High Camps at 4,800m and 5,881m; their food supplies were low and they had to endure temperatures as low as –38 degrees C.
When the storm approached, several tents were ripped from the mountain and the team lost tents at High Camp 1 and Base Camp. As the winds of up to 160 kph whipped past, two tents at High Camp 2 were destroyed and their occupants were forced to rescue what equipment they could and dive into the remaining tents. There were four people in two-man tents! Over the next three days as they waited for the storm to abate, half the team remained at High Camp 2 huddled in two tents whilst the other members returned to High Camp 1. On Wednesday, January 24 there was a slight break in the atrocious weather conditions and the first team headed out for the summit at 0700. After a very physical and emotionally-demanding day at altitude, gaining over 1,100m in height, they reached the summit (6,962m, 22,842ft) at 1620 – the Roof of the Americas!
As they were advancing up the mountain the second team transferred up to High Camp 2 and moved into the tents. The first team returned to High Camp 2 at 2000, had a hot drink and continued down to the thicker air and tents at High Camp 1, reaching their sleeping bags, totally exhilarated and exhausted at midnight. On Thursday, January 25 the second team managed to summit and the following day descended all the way to Base Camp for a well-deserved rest.
The Fire and Ice team would like to thank all the organisations and individuals who have supported and sponsored them for the Aconcagua Expedition. For further information on the Fire and Ice fund raising activities, expeditions and work in schools, plus a gallery of high altitude and adventure photographs, please visit the website www.fireandiceexpeditions.co.uk or contact John Robson
Expedition Team Members
• John Robson, Durham and Darlington Fire and Rescue Service – 1st summit team
• Gary Bankhead, Durham and Darlington Fire and Rescue Service – 1st summit team
• Steve Marrs, Durham and Darlington Fire and Rescue Service – 2nd summit team
• Jeff Crawford, Cleveland Fire and Rescue Service – Returned to Base Camp
• Steve Marin, Humberside Fire and Rescue Service – 2nd summit team • Fraser Paul, Highland and Islands Fire and Rescue Service – 2nd summit team
About Fire and Ice
The team always support themselves by self funding the expeditions and purchasing mountaineering gear which means that every last penny raised through their presentations and other events can go to their chosen charities.
The Fire and Ice aim is to assist people to meet life’s challenges and raise awareness of equality and diversity. They achieve this through volunteering their time to deliver talks and presentations to schools, businesses and other organisations through the aid of their life experiences, anecdotes and beautiful photography from their high altitude adventures.
As serving fire officers they have practical, personal and professional experiences and qualifications in several subject areas including leadership and management, education, learning and development and mountaineering. Since April 2004 they have participated in expeditions to Everest Base Camp (5,300m), the world’s highest active volcano Cotopaxi in the Ecuadorian Andes (5,897m) and the world’s highest free-standing mountain Kilimanjaro (5,895m) which is often referred to as the Roof of Africa. They also participate annually in the UK 3 Peaks Challenge (Ben Nevis, Scafell Pike and Snowdon) and this year finished in 2nd place and were awarded the Draeger Safety trophy.
Over the past three years they have raised over £20,000 and all funds are donated to their recipient charities at an annual May presentation evening in Durham. Additionally, the Fire and Ice team have visited over 30 schools and colleges, delivering presentations to over 8,000 children and raising awareness of life’s challenges and equality and diversity. They also organise a Fire and Ice Black Tie (with a touch of Ice Blue) Cabaret evening at the Ramside Hall Hotel, Durham in March annually.
About the Andes
The mountain of Aconcagua in the southern Andes is the highest peak in the world outside of the Himalayas, and the highest of the seven continental summits after Everest. Of the seven summits, Aconcagua offers the climber the best value in terms of altitude gained for effort expended. The ascent is arduous due to the scale of this bleak and harsh mountain, its considerable extreme altitude (50 per cent less oxygen than at sea level) and the most unpredictable of weather conditions.
The predominant winds in the central Andes come from the southwest and can be unrelenting with speeds of up to 90km quite common. At top camp the cold temperatures are severe and can fall to -40 degrees centigrade. The region is also subject to El Nino, a southern phenomenon in the southern hemisphere that can dramatically alter the weather.
The incidence of failure due to the effects of altitude, wind and weather conditions is particularly high with only a 25 per cent success rate. Unfortunately, every year there are climbing fatalities and casualties with climbers suffering from High Altitude Pulmonary Oedema (HAPE), High Altitude Cerebral Oedema (HACE) or Altitude Mountain Sickness (AMS). Alpinists consider Aconcagua to be much more difficult than a large proportion of its Himalayan cousins due to its harsh environment, unpredictable weather, the dreaded Canaletta scree slope that must be overcome at 6,800m, and the long distance to base camp. The relative distance of Aconcagua from the equator, compared to the Himalayas, is a factor in terms of weather and altitude. The further one travels from the equator the thinner the earth’s atmosphere. In the Americas Aconcagua tops a list of 43 peaks, all in South America, ahead of Denali (Mount McKinley) in Alaska.
Aconcagua is entirely within the Republic of Argentina, very close to the border with Chile. Halfway south to the middle of Chile and below the Tropic of Capricorn, it is in the province of Mendoza.
Aconcagua is a tough proposition and frequently grinds down those who have not prepared themselves sufficiently. Climbers expect vicious cold winds on the mountain and a lot of time spent in tents. It is important to train seriously for the physical demands of the expedition, but also to prepare mentally and physiologically for a degree of discomfort. Success on summit day requires a great deal of determination.
Climbers should prepare with lots of long walks on the British hills carrying a reasonably heavy pack (15kg) and weekend overnight treks. On this type of outing, individuals will get a sense of the kind of fatigue they can expect on Aconcagua, but without the altitude of course!
For more information contact: John Robson, Group Manager Special Projects, Risk Planning and Resilience;Tel: 0191 3324279; Email:
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